Designer Brands Inc., a footwear company that owns DSW, has released its inaugural shoe from the JEMS by PENSOLE line, a Black-owned shoe brand.

It is the first shoe to roll off the assembly line at its new first Black-owned footwear factory in the U.S. and was inspired by Jan Ernst Matzeliger, a Black inventor known for creating the lasting machine. Based in Somersworth, New Hampshire, the factory opened earlier this year as part of a partnership between Designer Brands and JEMS by PENSOLE.

“The FIRST JEM celebrates (Jan Ernst) Matzeliger’s little-known legacy,” said footwear designer Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, founder of JEMS by PENSOLE and Detroit-based Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design, the only design-focused HBCU in the country.

He added the FIRST JEM launched on Matzeliger’s birthday, Sept. 15. JEMS, stands for Jan Ernst Matzeliger Studio.

“His invention of the lasting machine in 1883 revolutionized the way shoes are made and is still used today. We’re celebrating his legacy and embodying that same revolutionary spirit, seeking to bring opportunity to new design talent and influence the face of the footwear industry.”

The purpose of the lasting machine is to shape and attach the upper part of a shoe, including the vamp and quarter, to the shoe's sole. This process, known as "lasting," ensures that the shoe maintains its desired shape and structure. Lasting machines use various mechanisms and moulds to achieve a secure and lasting bond between the upper and sole, a critical step in the production of high-quality footwear.

Designer Brands and JEMS by PENSOLE say they plan to use the new Somersworth factory to roll out future lines of athletic footwear by new brands and underrepresented designers in the coming years.

“Diversity drives innovation and brings new thinking, designs, and products to consumers, yet Black representation sits at less than five percent across all design industries,” said Designer Brands president Bill Jordan. “We’re excited to partner with Dr. Edwards on the JEMS by PENSOLE line. FIRST JEM is just the beginning step in our goal to forge entrepreneurial opportunities for underrepresented footwear designers and make their vision and designs accessible to our customers at DSW stores.”