The Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design (PLC) and its investor, Designer Brands Inc., have officially opened the first Black-owned footwear factory in the U.S., a more than $3 million project.

The group did a ribbon-cutting event and welcomed JEMS by PENSOLE, based in Somersworth, New Hampshire. PLC president Dr. D’Wayne Edwards and Designer Brands president Bill Jordan cut it together and announced that its first collection of shoes will soon launch at its stores.

“JEMS by PENSOLE is a firm step (toward) promising careers for Black leaders in footwear, who as a group, represent less than five percent across all design industries,” Dr. Edwards said in a statement. “With our factory now open, we'll quickly advance PLC graduates to training for product pre-production all the way to the creation of our first sneakers. Our partnership with Designer Brands and DSW makes all this possible and celebrates Black business innovators in important and meaningful ways.”

Supplier LeCrown Shoes Industry Co. Ltd. has also invested $1 million, according to a statement.

The ribbon-cutting ceremony represents another bridge crossed for Dr. Edwards and his Detroit-based PLC, the first and only historically Black college and university (HBCU) in Michigan and the first HBCU to focus on design.

It could also provide opportunities for Black designers to create brands through the PLC and Designer Brands partnership.

The name JEMS stands for "Jan Ernst Matzeliger Studio". It’s in honour of the legendary Black footwear pioneer who received a patent that revolutionized footwear manufacturing in 1883.

“JEMS by PENSOLE's opening marks a major achievement in improving representation by people of colour in the footwear and design industries,” Bill Jordan, president of Designer Brands, said in a statement. “We are excited to see the initial shoe designs brought to life by PLC graduates in the new factory, with the future products to be sold exclusively at DSW stores.”

It expects to add to its billion-dollar digital commerce business and create opportunities for Black designers to enter nearly 650 stores in the U.S. and Canada. Designer Brands owns the Vince Camuto brand as well as the DSW Designer Shoe Warehouse and The Shoe Company banners.

“By honouring the legacy of Black entrepreneurs, we aim to inspire future designers by providing a powerful path for educational, career, and retail success. When we work to advance diversity in the world of fashion brands, our business succeeds, and everyone wins,” Jordan added.